Thursday, June 19, 2014

Kiama to Huskisson on Jervis Bay

Beautiful Kiama
The weather on our first day in Kiama was not what we were hoping for with overcast skies and very strong winds making for our introduction to the cold.  Vic and I haven’t experienced a truly cold winter since leaving home in 2012 and this was a very sudden reality check.  Early in the morning we got a phone call from an old friend of ours Paul, a fellow
Paul & Rod
Jeeper whose wife , Jenny, stayed with us overnight in Port Macquarie as she headed to Brissie to visit family.  As with Jenny, we hadn’t seen Paul since 2005, so were
Love is....
thrilled that he’d decided to drive down from his home in Sydney to spend the day with us.

Paul has a couple of Jeeps to choose from when he goes for a Saturday drive, including a new Grand Cherokee, so I was over the moon when he rocked up in his Cherokee Chief, a rare limited model from 1980.  Vic and I had a ’79 model and it’s always been our favourite.  Paul has spent a lot of time (and $$$, I’m sure!) making this jeep extra special and it’s common knowledge that it’ll go to the grave with him.  

Our first stop was one of the many coffee shops in town and despite the windy conditions, we sat outside, while all the regulars sat inside.  We should have remembered the old saying… When in Rome, etc!  The only thing that wasn’t cold was the coffee!  We checked out the Terrace Shops, which were originally built in 1886 as housing for the local quarry workers and are now classified as historic buildings with the National Trust.  
Kiama Blowhole
The first recorded reference to the Kiama Blowhole was in 1797, and on our first ever visit, it was working beautifully still, thanks to the seas running from the south-east, which create the most impressive displays.  As you leave Blowhole Point you pass the harbour and fresh seafood shop, so fresh seafood seemed the obvious choice for lunch.  A short distance down the coast is the Little Blowhole,
Kiama Harbour and Seafoods
so we set off to check it out after a great fish and chip meal.  This one works best with seas from the north-east, so wasn’t at it’s best, but still great to watch.  Paul had a 2½ hour drive home so headed off late in the afternoon leaving Vic and I to hibernate inside the van.

Overnight, the wind got wilder and was gale force by the morning.  It was the day of “Wings over the Illawarra”, probably the biggest celebration in Australia of all things aeronautical, and as much as I’d have liked to go, I’m glad we didn’t… most of the aircraft were unable to fly due to the dangerous conditions.  
Saddleback Mountain views
Vic and I headed over to the blowhole again and it was far more active than the day before.  Even though the wind was making things uncomfortable (and bloody cold!) it was a beautiful clear day so we headed down the coast road and took the 1½ klm drive up Saddleback Mountain Road to the lookout which sits 662 metres above the coast.  From here we had an amazing view out over Kiama far below and north over beautiful rolling farmland to Wollongong, nestled between the Illawarra Escarpment and the coast.
  
As we drove back down Saddleback Mountain we stopped to take in the view south along the coast to Berry, and then to photograph one of the 400 dry stone walls, which have been identified in the Kiama area.  These walls were constructed over 100 years 
Some of the many dry stone walls
ago, most of them by Thomas Newing who built stone walls for 60 years, and these divide properties, paddocks and roadways.
  We then drove south along the coast, checking out some of the small villages and beaches as we went, before arriving in Berry, which was absolutely pumping with people and traffic. This is clearly where a lot of Sydney-siders like to spend their Sundays and a popular destination for car clubs on Sunday cruises.


Berry Post Office
The wind had eased by the following morning and left a glorious day, but still very cold.  Before Vic and I left on this journey in 2012, we had both made a list of “must do’s”, things each of us wanted to see, do or achieve while on this trip, and on this particular day, I was going to tick one off that list.  We headed north and at Shellharbour, turned off the M1 and followed the tourist drive, which took us through Port Kembla and onto Wollongong.  

WIN Stadium
We checked out ‘Win Stadium’, home of the St. George - Illawarra Dragons, (my mate Phil calls them the Mighty Dragons!) and then had morning tea at Flagstaff Point.  The view up and down the coast from here, is beautiful, and it gives you a good perspective of ‘The Gong’.  It’s an interesting walk around this point with a lighthouse, 19th century cannons and a gun emplacement to explore.

Flagstaff Point Lighthouse in Wollongong
Our drive was going to take us to the Sea Cliff Bridge, a magnificent piece of Australian architecture, which I’ve wanted to visit for some time since seeing it regularly on TV commercials, particularly car ads.  While having a cuppa at Flagstaff Point, I was talking to a local who informed us that access to the bridge from the south along the coast road wasn’t possible because the road was closed for a week due to roadworks.  Vic and her Ipad worked out a way we could bypass the spot and get to the bridge from the north, but this meant getting back onto the M1 and heading for Sydney before turning back toward the coast.

To get to the M1 we needed to make our way up the Bulli Pass, a piece of road that runs up the eastern face of the Illawarra Escarpment and rises over a kilometer in a very short distance. This is not a road you want to take a caravan on… it’s steep and long.  Heading up or down, this would be brutal on any tow vehicle.  At the top of the pass you rejoin the M1, and just near here is the Illawarra Tourist Info Centre.  The centre is perched on the edge of the range and has a deck that is 1,128 metres above sea level and affords an absolutely spectacular view of the coast.  This deck hangs precariously out into the void and is not for the faint hearted.
Looking south across Wollongong from the Illawarra Tourist Info Centre
New South Wales roads are generally pretty good but don’t always make sense.  We were travelling north on the M1 towards Sydney and were able to turn off to visit the tourist info centre, however, you can’t rejoin the M1 in that direction, so after some more searching by Vic and a 20klm detour, we were back on track and could actually see the Sydney city buildings in the distance.  We took the turn off to
Stanwell Park
Stanwell Park, a little seaside village, and headed to Bald Point.  There is a really nice park and picnic area here (with a resident mobile cafĂ©!) and a fantastic view down the coast, which gives you a real appreciation of the fantastic Sea Cliff Bridge.  I was ecstatic to be finally standing here and taking this all in, even though it had taken us 4½ hours to get here, about 45klms north of Kiama.
Yipee!!
Where here
Lawrence Hargrave Drive, built in the 1860’s and named in 1947 after the aviation pioneer, takes you across the 665 metre long Sea Cliff Bridge then continues on down the coast and is known as one of the most scenic drives in Australia.  This section of the road is notorious for rock slides, landslips and erosion and in August 2003 was closed due to a massive landslide that knocked out part of the road and destabilized what was left.  Work started in 2004 on the new bridge, which cost $49million, and it opened in December 2005.  
Sea Cliff Bridge
66,000 tons of rock was brought in to build the access roads and 11,000 cubic metres of concrete was used in the construction.  

The roadway sits high above the pounding surf and swings out over the coast so that it is right away from any danger of erosion or rockfall damage. The piers on the bridge are protected from corrosion using an Impressed Electrical Current (Cathodic Protection System) and it should have a design life of 100 years.  I was a very happy little Vegemite at the end of the day!

After 4 nights in Kiama we got back on the Princes Highway and continued south driving through Nowra and taking the turn off, soon after, that lead us into the Jervis Bay area.  Our good friends, Phil and Sue, recommended we stay at Huskisson after their recent visit.  Vic and I booked into the White Sands Caravan Park (also on their recommendation!) and got a great site with a view out over Jervis Bay.  
Huskisson's White Sands Caravan Park
This is a really nice park with spotless amenities and grounds.  It’s a 10 minute walk into town with a great pub, good selection of shops, cool cafes and an awesome bakery. 
Coffee time
While Vic and I were looking around we booked a cruise on the bay, for the next day, which promised dolphin spotting, morning tea, an informative commentary and a good time to boot.
Windblown Jervis Bay

We were up bright and early the next morning and just about ready to leave when we got a phone call to inform us that due to the high winds and rough conditions on the bay, there would be no cruise today.  We decided to take a drive and visited Hyam Beach, said to have some of the whitest sand in Australia (I don’t reckon it’s anywhere near as white as the Whitsundays!), then over to George’s Basin, a large salt water lake about 10 klms inland from the bay.


Hyam Beach
Pristine waters of Jervis Bay looking across to Cape Perpindicular
The water of Jervis Bay is probably the clearest you’ll ever see and the whole area is naturally pristine. The water here is so clear because there are no large rivers or creeks draining into it and very little urban development. The population of the villages around Jervis Bay is only 6,500 and no sewerage enters the bay, it’s all been recycled since 2002 and used to water golf courses etc in the area.  Also, the rich biodiversity, good mangrove system, the native trees, shrubs and grasses along the foreshore and the large areas of seagrasses in the bay help keep the water healthy. 
So with that in mind, it’s hard to believe that all of this could have been lost in the 80’s when the approval was given to build a nuclear power station here.  Work actually commenced before public opposition and protests forced the government to cancel the project.  If you check Google Earth you can see areas of the seagrass missing where the sea floor was dynamited in preparation for the huge wharf that was to be built to service the power station.
Waiting for our Dolphin cruise to commence
St George's Basin


The following morning was still quite windy but the cruise was going ahead anyway.  Vic and I were there on time and 15 minutes after the proposed departure time we were still sitting at the dock when those of us on board were told that we were waiting for two groups to arrive.  Shortly after, a group of Asian businessmen boarded and then a large group of seniors.  By the time we headed out into the bay, the seas were extremely rough and the wind was strengthening.  Luckily, most of us had our morning tea while sitting at the dock, because it was near impossible to make your way around the boat in these conditions.  We headed out to the eastern side of the bay, looked for dolphins for 10 minutes, saw none, came back across the bay with no commentary at all, then berthed 1½ hours later.  Not real happy!
Jervis Bay - Huskisson
Vic and I walked over to the bakery and had a great lunch before having a lazy afternoon around the van and preparing to continue south the next day.

Until next week… Happy travels!


        









  

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